When the windows are full of sheepskin but you sweat in shorts, you know the fashion calendar is broken. Of course, brands are moving to see now, buy now. But use now? Sorry, Tom Ford. Your ankle-length parkas are gorgeous, but you might see us again in January.
However, you can start some of this season's trends before
the first frost. As designers embrace the in-between, the AW16 collections
prove that once you've mastered texture and layering, you're ready to tackle
any weather.
THE SUIT THAT SAYS CHECK ME OUT
It's no secret that haute couture has gotten shocking in
recent seasons. We are done with # menswear, thank goodness, but now that suits
are, for many men, a choice and not a requirement, they want to experiment.
This season, it's the easiest way to incorporate the Fall / Winter 2016
signature motif, tiles. Although there are some points to maintain a breast
(double).
First, no head-to-toe tartan or flashy color combinations
that burn the retina. Leave the hot pink on the cyan tiles for those wandering
around Pitti Square and instead take a look at its architecture: cement suits
with whitish or tonal blue tiles that stick more to the navy than the sky.
It is also a look that favors slimmer men; patterns add
volume to frames naturally, so be careful if you pack your beach body with your
summer wardrobe.
Men's checked suit lookbook
A TRACK TOP DESIGNED FOR THE TOUCH LINE
Athleisure is the worst thing that has happened to men's
fashion. What used to be reserved for laundry day now struts down the slopes; jogging
pants with deconstructed blazers, coats with sweatshirts, and the zip-up track
jacket with, well, everything.
It is the evolution of clothed intelligence, the
tracksuit merging with the royal costume. And she keeps you warmer (and more
fashionable) than a cardigan.
But, unlike a vest, it also works on weekends. Sportswear
can snuggle up with fancy clothes these days, but they don't forget their
roots. Whether you go for a high-end version like Burberry or the Adidas or
Fred Perry OG logo, they can be paired with skinny jeans for a laid-back
inspired look, or tapered joggers for a matching athletic look.
Men's sports jacket inspiration lookbook
THE TROUSERS THAT LOST THEIR LUGGAGE
This year's biggest accessory is also the most practical.
The pockets have multiplied in the Saharans, the chalets and, like the last two
seasons, up to the middle of the leg.
Cargo pants have seen an unlikely revival: the brother's
favorite uniform has been kidnapped, left in a large camp, and not allowed out
until he gets rid of all the excess fabric. Think preppy Michael Bastian, not
fluttering Fred Durst.
Of course, practical means something more fashionable. These
are not spaces for your keys or a spare charger. In fact, don't insert anything
bigger than a wardrobe ticket, to keep that slim figure.
You'll also want to avoid mixing them with something too
martial - add an MA-1 bomber or camo jacket and your military sign will
eventually enlist. Instead, think of it as chinos and dress in a
double-breasted blazer, sweater, or sweatshirt to keep your street civilian
look.
THE NECK THAT IS NOT MELTED
Most of the luxury runway looks stay there. They are too
expensive. They are too impractical. It's the kind of thing that looks good in
glossy magazines and then like hell on the street (yell, Rick Owens). But
sometimes the big brands launch a piece or a trend that any man can steal. And
this season, Gucci's seedy scarves are the easiest way to brighten up any
outfit.
In Alessandro Michele's designs, they were inspired by a
cheesy 1970s vibe, all the cashmere prints, ponytail tops, and glittery silks
(that's Gucci, after all). But your twist may be less luxurious. As all the
models in all the street shops prove this season, match the tone with the rest
of your outfit and everyday outfits are suddenly in style.
If you went for solid pieces, use your scarf to add a pattern. If you're wearing a plaid suit, let a solid color tone-on-tone chef sit where a tie would, under an open shirt. Just leave the knot loose, with some room to breathe.